DIY Fix: How to Install a Greddy Boost Cut Controller (BCC) on a 2JZ-GTE with VVT-i (Lexus GS300/Toyota Aristo)

A Greddy Boost Cut Controller (BCC) will allow you raise the boost pressure without hitting the factory boost cut.

Our project Lexus GS300 (Toyota Aristo) has been running great, and we love the flexibility of the VVT-i 2JZ-GTE engine around town.  Boost comes online at 1500 rpm in sequential operation to provide adequate torque, and the 2nd turbo comes on at about 4200 rpm to provide additional power up top when needed.  We switched the car to a parallel setup aka True Twin Conversion (TTC mode), which has a bit more lag with the turbos providing boost starting at about 2800 rpm, but there is no dip in power between 3800-4200 rpm when the 2nd turbo would spool up in sequential mode.  This gives the car a more linear feeling powerband with more midrange punch, albeit at the expense of low end torque. 

We recently installed a bleed valve style manual boost controller to increase the boost from the factory setting of 12 psi.  One thing we noticed with the installation of the boost controller was the immediate increase in low end torque.  Noticeable boost (~5 psi) would come in at about 2200-2400 rpm depending on the gear we were in, which made our GS300 much easier to drive around town at low speeds.  We wanted to set our boost to 16 psi, however we were running into boost cut at 14.7 psi (1 Bar) of boost.  Boost cut is a safety feature where the computer cuts the ignition to the motor if the manifold pressure exceeds a certain threshold (1 Bar in our case with the 2JZ-GTE engine) for more than a second or two. 

To bypass the factory boost cut, we went with Greddy's Boost Cut Controller (BCC).  This device caps the voltage signal coming from the manifold pressure sensor, so the car's computer will not invoke boost cut.  Since Greddy does not make a 2JZ-GTE specific BCC, you will need to source one for a 2nd generation MR2 (SW20 chassis).  Follow along as we show you how to install the BCC on a Lexus GS300/Toyota Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVT-i engine. 

DIY Fix: Increasing trunk tension on a Lexus GS300 or Toyota Aristo (preventing decapitation!)

The Lexus GS300 (Toyota Aristo for our overseas readers) is a great luxury sport sedan, and it has been our ongoing project car for the past 18 months.  There are a lot of things we love about the car, and a few things we don't like.  One annoyance is the fact that the trunk closes way too easy, and it comes down with enough force to leave a bruise on your back or head, such as when were installing the rear strut tower bar on the car. 

On a recent trip to get groceries, a small incline was enough to keep our trunk from staying open.  Juggling groceries, packing a stroller, getting rained on, and caring for a toddler don't make for a great mix.  We decided enough was enough, and took a look to see if we could do something to keep the trunk from being so easy to close.  Thankfully, there is a remedy to increase the tension on the trunk, and it literally took a few minutes to do.

DIY Fix: Remove and Replace Cabin Air Filter Lexus GS300 (Toyota Aristo JZS161)

What is a cabin air filter?  We all know that an air filter keeps dirt and grit from entering the engine, but what about the for air entering the inside of the car when you use your fan or a/c?  The cabin air filter is similar to an engine's air filter in that by design it is to keep pollutants and pollen from entering the cabin while driving.  Follow along as we show you how to replace the cabin air filter on our project GS300. 

DIY Fix: How to Remove and Replace Steering Rack Bushings (Lexus GS300 / Toyota Aristo)

This the is the bag that contained our urethane steering rack bushings.  We got them from Sewell Lexus.

The 1998-2005 Lexus GS (Toyota Aristo in Japan) is a great luxury car that is quite affordable now on the used market for many car shoppers.  The car was billed as a sports/luxury sedan, and if it was optioned as a GS400, it was one of the quickest mid-sized sedans at the time in 1998 with a 1/4 mile time in the low 14 second range.  Straight line prowess aside, the car was also quite capable of tackling winding back roads too.  The Lexus did have to make compromises though, especially in the area of steering feedback.

To keep drivers who prefer luxury comfort happy, Lexus chose to use rubber bushings in the steering rack.  These rubber bushings do a commendable job at keeping vibration and harshness to a minimum.  However, they also dampen out most of the information the front tires give to the driver during cornering.  To make things worse, as the bushings age, they allow quite a bit of flex and movement of the steering rack.  This flexing of the rack gives the steering wheel a "dead zone," an area where even if you turn the steering wheel, nothing happens.  The dead zone lasts for a split second or so until the car will actually begin to turn, but it's enough to reduce driver confidence.  In worse case scenarios, the bushings can degrade to the point where the steering wheel will have side-to-side free play even while driving straight!  Not safe if you needed to do an emergency maneuver.

Our project Lexus GS did have some noticeable steering rack flex during cornering, but the dead zone wasn't as bad as on other GS300s we have driven.  Follow along as we show you a basic guide on how to replace the steering rack bushings for a GS300 to restore driver confidence.  As always, we do not have any responsibility for the work you do to your car.  If in doubt, have a professional do the job! 

DIY Fix: How to Remove and Replace Lower Ball Joints and Outer Tie Rods (Lexus GS 300/Toyota Aristo JZS161)

Ball joints and tie rods are critical for maintaining steering control and safety.  A broken ball joint or tie rod can result in a catastrophic accident.

In recent weeks, we've received quite a few questions from people asking if we can help them identify odd noises coming from their vehicles.  While we cannot guarantee we can help them pinpoint the exact cause of the noise, we generally ask them a few questions or ask them to send us a video to help us get an idea of the general location of the noise. 

The most common one thus far has been odd noises coming from the front end of a person's car, and aside from shocks or wheel bearings, we noticed that ball joints and tie rods are the usual culprits.  Follow along as we explain how to check for bad ball joints and tie rod ends, and show a general how to on our very own project car.

DIY Fix: How to Replace Your License Plate Bulb / Light (Car: Lexus GS 300)

Spring is in full effect, and since the days are getting longer little by little, some of us may not have to use our lights as often while driving.  One thing to check after a winter driving season are your vehicle's exterior lights.  Many times, this is a really quick inspection that people forget to do.  The ones that we do check often are the brake lights and headlights, but there are a pair of lights which do get ignored: the license plate lights.  These tiny bulbs can sometimes be the reason for being pulled over.  Follow along as we show you how a mini DIY tutorial on how to replace the license plate bulbs on a Lexus GS300, aka Toyota Aristo for those of our readers in Japan.  Remember, that this tutorial is just a reference and we are in no way responsible for any damage you do to your vehicle.  If in doubt, consult a professional for assistance.

DIY Fix: How to Remove and Replace Glass Headlight on Your Car

Did road debris or a rock damage your headlight?  We show you how to replace the glass lens!

While spring is on its way here, the hours of daylight are still less than the hours of darkness and many drivers spend part of their commute using their headlights.  Many new cars have headlight housings made of plastic, but a lot of older cars have headlight housings made of glass which are prone to cracking to if they are struck by debris.

A small chip can quickly spread into a large crack and make night time driving hazardous for both the driver and other commuters.  The crack affects the beam pattern, increasing glare for oncoming drivers.  For the driver, moisture can enter the housing and short out the headlight, or the glass housing can shatter.

Our daily driver vehicle is equipped with glass headlight housings, and we recently had an errant rock create a chip on our housing which had spread to a massive crack in a few miles.  By the time we got  home from our work commute, the housing was threatening to completely break.  Rather than pay a lot of money to have the dealership/mechanic's shop fix the headlight lens, we decided to save some money and do it ourselves. 

Follow along as we show you a step-by-step tutorial on how to replace the glass lens housing of the headlight. 

DIY Diagnosis: Loose Fan Belt or Serpentine Belt Sound

We were asked why someone's car was making a high pitched squealing sound when the person first started the car, or took off from a stop.  The most common cause of the squealing sound is a loose fan or serpentine belt.

Random Wrench Tip #5 Magnetize Your Tools

If you're like us, there are times when you are in the middle of a job, and stuck trying to use a screwdriver or ratchet in a tight spot without being able to support the bolt or screw with your free hand.  More times than not, that bolt or screw can slip out and fall into a part of your car where it seems like a black hole exists.  This leads to lost time and frustration, and when you do find the fallen item, it's usually in a crevice where you need a magnet to get it back. 

Random Wrench Tip #4: Quck and Easy Makeshift Funnel

If you've ever had the unfortunate experience of having to add fluids to your car at the side of the road or in a parking lot away from home without a funnel, you know how frustrating it can be to keep the fluids from spilling all over your engine bay.  The ordeal can be especially maddening when the fluid happens to be brake fluid because it will quickly damage any painted surface. 

Fear not, as this random wrench tip will make you feel like MacGyver in no time!

Random Wrench Tip #3: Easier spray painting

If you're like us and need to the good ol' spray cans once in a while, you know what a pain it is to achieve a decent spray pattern from the cans.  This is especially true when it is cold outside.  Even if you constantly shake the cans to mix the paint up, you still get some awful spray patterns.  One method to reduce the blotches and achieve a better spray pattern is to heat the cans above the ambient temperature. 

An easy way to do this is to take heat enough water to cover the cans if they are placed in a small tub or container.  The water can be heated to about 110-120 degrees, and then place the cans in there for about 15-20 minutes.  Once you remove the cans, the spray pattern should be better and a bit more even.  As you use the can, it will cool down, but you can swap it for a warmer can and put the old one back in the water to reheat it. 

Note:  Take care not to overheat the cans as they may leak or explode, which would require you to clean up a mess!  Also, don't heat the cans over an open heat source, as they may explode.  Only use the water bath. 

Random Wrench Tip #2: Making a handy parts tray

When working on a car or a house project, it's very easy to lose the screws, nuts and bolts that are needed to complete a task.  Perhaps you also might not be able to finish in time, or maybe you want to organize some of the small items in your garage.  Nothing is more frustrating than to be on a search for that final, elusive piece to the job! 

Random Wrench Tip #1: Making tape sticky again

Here's a tip you can try if you have some old duct tape or masking tape lying around that has lost its stickiness.  Put the tape in your microwave for a few seconds, usually around 5-10.  This will allow your tape to regain some of its stickiness and you will be able to use it again.

Another thing you can do is wrap some of the tape on a slightly rounded bolt to allow your wrench or socket to have more torque.  It might just be enough to help you get that bolt loose.